As it is the busy Christmas and New Year trading time unfortunately the tuna auction was closed to tourists (5am start). That aside there is still plenty to fill a day at the market. Its really easy to get to on either the Oedi subway line (Tsukiji Shijo station) or Hibiya subway line (Tsukiji Station with a 5 minute walk). Its a 15 minute walk from Shimbashi JR station.
I arrived for 8am and started with breakfast at one of the outer restaurant shops. Tuna cheek fry with black pepper served on a bed of lettuce and rice 1200 yen circa $11. Wow this is a well kept food secret that is worth repeating.
The fish market is split into two, the outer and inner market. The outer market was the busiest with local and international tourists as you can see in the photo, very little room to move. Particularly a problem for the men transporting the fish across the market on trailers.
The street is full of iconic food stalls including Wagu Beef, Sashimi, Whale meat (distinguishable by the whale tail images). Japanese knives, chop sticks and holders as well as dining sets and cook books can also be purchased.
Food I tried included:
Tuna sushi, 500 yen gets you a piece of each of the lean, medium and fatty to try the difference. Fatty was definitely my favourite with a more rich flavour.
Tamagoyaki – Japanese style omelette made by rolling layers of cooked egg together in a rectangular pan. A sweet version is used for sushi. This is an art to watch as they add more raw egg to increase the size of the omelette
Minced fish wrapped in cheese and bacon - very moreish
Coffee coated soya beans with grasshoppers
Herring roe - Delicious
Inner Fish market
Edible Chrysanthemum flowers bought at the flower market
Trying them later in the hostel - the smaller flower heads definitely tasted better. Not something to try at home from shop bought bouquets unless they have been grown without pesticides
Dinner that evening consisted of: Wagu beef with:
Fern - only realised these could be poisonous if not cooked properly when looking for a recipe. First need to boil and then fry.
Lily bulb - boil for 5-6 minutes
Restaurant sign, made me smile...
When in Tokyo its a must to visit Shibuya crossing, believed to be the busiest in the world. You get a great view from Starbucks café. leave the subway, turn right and the intersection is in front of you.
Hachiko Statue (dressed to advertise apple cider)
Japan's famous dog is used in schools to demonstrate loyalty to children. The dog used to wait in the afternoon for his owner Professor Hidesaburo Ueno outside Shibuya station. He did this for a year until one day his owner did not return as he had died at work from a cerebral haemorrhage. The dog continued to come back for 9 years. The statue is a reminder of his loyalty.
Walking from Shibuya to Harajuku passed this radio station live on air
Sunday afternoon in Yoyogi park (near Meiji Jingu Shrine)
Park is popular of a weekend with locals and tourists chilling around the trees. Great for people watching having picnics, groups playing instruments, dogs dressed up and unusual animals on leads (rodents, monkeys and Meerkats).
Japanese greasers - 50's style dancing
Dog dressed in "Happy Christmas" outfit patiently waiting for owner on mobile
Meerkats dressed up
Walked over Harajuku Bridge down into an area called Takeshita Dori full of trendy young people shopping and Cosplay is popular. A few people were dressed up but in the Summer there is more I am assured.
Mocha Cat Café
200 Yen per 10 minutes
500 Yen cat treats
350 Yen for all you can drink in addition to entrance
Rules of the house
Do not chase cats
Do not give human food
Do not carry cats
Do not use a flash on your camera
Do not have loud unexpected music
Cats tend to leave you alone until you have food for them. They are happy to be stroked and played with when found. We paid for 10 minutes without a drink and found 6 cats around the building. The play area were amazing and very clean.
One of the cat rooms
Continuing down the street I came across:
Currency exchange machine - the future?
Crepes - pizza ham variety?
Rainbow candy floss
Rabbit café
Continued walking down to Omotesando which is a street full of designer shops. Locally known as the Champs Elysees with its tree lined avenue all lit up for Christmas.
Robot
Alice on Wednesday store selling everything Alice in Wonderland including drink me bottles, shop entrance is through a small door
Photo board on the side of a shop the images move very quickly
Oldest temple in Tokyo built in 645, The Kaminarimon (Thunder Gate) is iconic and the symbol of Asakusa
Around Japan deities dressed in red bibs or clothes are common place. this is because red is associated with expelling demons and illness. If on children's statues it is believed to help them pass from one world to the next since they have not had enough time to build up good karma.
Chocolate coated bananas
Food hawker
Dango made from rice flour and eaten miso sauce
Queuing for food is popular and lets you know what is good
As you can't eat in the street this shop had provided a space to eat
Ice cream in served in bread roll
Locals dressed up in traditional costume
Taking the dogs for a walk
Flamme d’Or - The Golden Turd
Situated near Senso ji Tempe the golden turd is located on top of the Asahi Brewery on the banks of the Sumida river in Asakusa. Designed by French Designer - Philippe stark
City car parking
Nijubashi /Imperial Palace - Edo castle previously a family residence
Midtown shopping mall Christmas 2016 in the starlight gardens
home/hostel. There is even a separate set of slippers provided for the toilet, these are
usually labelled toilet to highlight the difference.
2) Seems when going to the bathroom you choice your
toilet cubicle of choice and make a line in front of it. There is usually a
choice of western or Japanese style. One
woman decided to use the disabled toilet and jumped a whole queue of people and
no one said anything…. Best thing about the toilets over here are they have
heated seats and should you want privacy you can even play music whilst using
it.
3) This one I learnt within the first two days. In
Japan you do not walk and eat. You should eat the food where you purchased it
from. Or if there is no where appropriate you must go and find somewhere to
sit. I ate a pancake in a quiet street and received a hefty tut off a guy who
passed by.
4)
Slurping is the done thing at meal times. Seems
any noise possible is socially acceptable. Not great for those of us who were
bought up to think of this as bad manners. We were told to do this when taking
our last sip at the tea ceremony.
5) Do not double dip. This is when you are eating
with a group. Instead if you want to take more soy sauce you are supposed to
put it on an accompaniment eg cabbage and then dip from there. I saw one store
saying we do not serve soy dipping sauces in English.
6)
When going to a communal bath you need to clean
yourself first before entering the water.
I was also told that as a foreigner you need to bathe yourself even more
than a local so they can see you are fully clean. This was the same as in
Korea.
7) Do not tip as it is included in the price of meals and taxi fares
7) Do not tip as it is included in the price of meals and taxi fares
Final thoughts
Japan has been a great experience. If you wish to go I would
highly recommend planning your trip in advance including timings. The country
is very long and made up of a number of islands therefore travel can take time
with several changes on trains. The Japanese Rail Pass used by tourists (only
and must meet all criteria’s set) will soon be available inside the country but
at an inflated cost – still cheaper than buying it separately. The pass can be
purchased for 7, 14 or 21 days. I bought the 7 day pass and ensured all my
expensive travel was done during that time (hence the need to plan). Buses and
regular trains are available at a much lower cost. 2 hour Shinkansen journeys
may take 6+ hours via other means. I cut down the number of cities visited as
even travelling via Shinkansen meant spending days trains.