Nagano – Snow monkeys
The highlight to this part of my travels was spending time
with the Snow Monkeys, otherwise known as Red faced Japanese Macaques, the most
northern primate (besides humans). Temperatures they face can get down below
-15 degrees. The park is located in
the Yokoyu River valley, which is near the popular skiing area of Kits Shiga, a
UNESCO Biosphere reserve and National park and host of the 1998 winter Olympics
I arrived for 10am and there were about 20 other tourists there, this increased the later it got. Monkeys hang around until about 3pm when they go back to the forest. The monkeys are attracted to the food which is put out by the park keepers so you see a number combing the snow looking for the scraps which had been thrown down. Once full they would get into the hot spring (40 degrees) to warm up. Some got so relaxed that they would even take a nap. As ever with monkeys hierarchy takes effect and fights break out which can be fun to watch as long as you are not in the path of the one trying to get away. Other monkeys are grooming each other looking for lice and eggs then eat them. Near the hot spring area is a fire area which the park warden keeps stoked up. This is great to watch the monkeys drying off and keeping warm mingling with tourists.
In the cold the monkeys huddle together to keep warm so moms and babies were cute to watch and sometimes even adult monkeys together. Since they never actually know who the dad is of the baby males don’t get involved with the child rearing instead keep the group safe from predators. Females remain in the group whilst males once they reach an age go off and either find new troops or stay on their own. So I learnt from the educational signs up to the park.
I stayed about two hours watching the monkeys’ chilling in the water was awesome. Some people stayed longer others shorter time. Afterwards I went to a Hot Spring Onsen, In the local area there is a choice of thirteen Onsen’s. I choose the one nearest the entrance to the park which had an indoor and outdoor pool although I only ventured into the indoor one (brrrr). The water was hot at 42 degrees, great to warm up in after the being outdoors in the snow. Before getting in you need to go through the correct cleansing ritual as with all Onsen’s. Interesting there was a little stool, bowl and very low tap for this purpose discreetly hidden away by the pool. Having learnt from my Kyrgyzstan misadventure, I spent time in and out of the pool. 42 degrees is hot so the cool air on the side of the pool is a welcome relief.
Matsumoto
Next day was the last of my seven day JL Pass so I needed to get closer to Tokyo to save money on future train journeys. Matsumoto is only one hour away from Nagano, I left my luggage in the train station locker (600 yen for a large one although other sizes are available and outside walking towards the castle there are some large ones for 400 yen). I hooked up with a Swedish tourist and three Americans and we took a free guided tour around Matsumoto castle (see this link for history and also live web cab). It is the oldest castle In Japan built circa 1593 and one of five castles which has not been fully rebuilt, he was proud to inform us although renovations took place following the earth quake in April. 610 yen entrance fee was worth it even for me who doesn’t like museums.
Although it appears to be five stories high there is a hidden floor on the third floor where warriors stayed during wartime
Two hours later I had lunch in the convenience store opposite over looking the castle. Coffee and hotpot.
Walking back to the train station I walked through Nawate street which is a vehicle free street. Shop
keepers called it a street for visitors to come to, buy and go
home safely. All three words are Kaeru in Japanese same as frog hence its
name. A big frog statue can be found at either end to keep customers safe and
frogs are sold throughout the street.
Street view
Three trains later I arrived at Lake Kawaguchiko hoping to
see views of Mount Fuji (it was too late in the season to climb). Local train staff
are used to tourist hopefuls and gives out free origami Mount Fuji so that you
can say you have seen the top without clouds. For Christmas they even had Mt
Fuji Christmas lights around the town.
All day I walked around the lake, it was spectacular and
could have fitted in anywhere in Scotland but in true style Mount Fufi top was
covered in cloud all day. The lake and surrounding lakes and area is easiest
travelled around by bicycle however I chose to stay local. There are shops and
plenty of places to stop and sit to watch daily life.
Bush covers to protect from the elements
Evening view of Mount Fuji
Hot food vending machine Persimmons 
View from the lakeYokohama
Japans second largest city is 30 minutes by train to Tokyo making an easy day trip. I decided to stay a few days to explore the city and stayed near Chinatown (the largest in Japan and dates back to the Opening of Japan in 1859) and the Yokohama Bay Stars stadium home of the professional Yokohama baseball team.
Chinatown
Panda Merchandise Shop
The city is easy to explore by foot or bicycle and the port promenade around Yamashita and Minato Mirai 21 has a walking route clearly signposted going past the International passenger terminal, the Red brick warehouse and Cosmo world featuring the worlds largest clock situated within a rollercoaster.
Statue of The Girl With Red Shoes represents Yokohama, situated near the port in Yamashita Park.
A well known song from 1922, now read as poetry;
The little girl who wore red shoes has gone - led away by a foreigner
They boarded a ship in Yokohama harbour She's gone, led away by a foreigner
She is probably in the foreigners' country now - I wonder if her eyes have turned blue?
Whenever I see red shoes I think of her - Whenever I meet a foreigner I think of her
Tai Chi in the park
Yokohama Landmark tower features an observatory at the top
Aka Renga Souko (Yokohama Red Brick Warehouse) has been developed into shops and restaurants within the port area
One shop featured the famous replica food by Takizo Iswasaki
Yokohama famous "Red Shoes" merchandise
Christmas market at the warehouse including a area with fake snow for children
Clock - centre of the ferris wheel
Local delicacy Coffin bread snacks filled with fruit and ice cream
