Journey through Tainan, Chiayi (Alishan national park), Puli (Sun Moon Lake) and Taipei
Tainan – nicknamed the city of snacks
Tainan is the fifth largest city and the oldest city in Taiwan and was previously a capital in days gone by. I was only staying a day so visited the most popular area of Anping famous for its fort and tree house. Initially the tree house was Tait & Co merchant house then the Japanese salt company took it over during its occupation after the salt industry declined it became disused and the Banyan trees have taken over. This has created a spectacular looking sight rivalling Angkor Wat and the famous tree. Where the roof has fallen in the trees have taken over the house shell to become one contrasting to the original red brickwork it has the ultimate wow factor and definitely the second best feature to visit in Taiwan (cost to get in TND $50).
Walking back through the town I discovered two shopping streets full of goods to try and buy. I sampled a sausage in a sausage. The outer sausage was sticky rice whilst the inner was Chinese sweet sausage. The guy tried warmed it up on a minute bbq but needn’t have wasted his energy as it was only luke warm and on sampling was not very tasty. I found a stall selling smoked plum juice which I had two large gulps of and decided it was one of the worst drinks ever tasted.
Coffin Toast
I found a shop sampling 20ish different flavoured vinegars which are common drinks here. My favourite were rose, apple and peach whilst my least was lavender , cherry and pineapple.
Time was ticking on and I had originally planned to visit an orchid garden which specialises in a menu made from orchids including ice cream and cakes. However after eating so much I decided a walk around Tainan town would be a better option. First to a temple but I wanted to go around the streets sampling its famous snacks. On the map each of the famous food stalls are marked and the shop sign also featured what it was famous for. I first discovered a roast duck stall so ate a bowl of duck soup, very delicious and quite peppery; they use white pepper a lot here.
Cute sign in temple
Continuing around the town I found a guy who had set up his fire on a street corner in a disused shop front. He was cooking little pies, what the heck and calories I tried a pie with custard cream and an Oreo in. Others waiting (always need to queue for good food) were ordering them in 10’s I thought one was enough. Either way it was a nice little snack.
I found the oldest department store in Taiwan called Hayashi which was still laid out in its original format. The lift was the original and as such limited the number of passengers in. Across the road was also the original land bank another architectural sight. Both buildings were easy to see due the amount of tourists (mostly Chinese) taking photos.
I stopped for dinner in an alley that I initially walked past. I noticed a group of young people congregating around a mobile food stand so thought I would take a look. Luckily some of the group spoke English and asked what they thought was the best and it came back cheese. So I found myself ordering an egg roll with cheese,, Which was an omelette cooked on one side then when they turn it over they put a cheese slice on then add a roti made from puff pastry. I had originally tried to order cheese and bacon since this was a luxury I had not found before but they said that’s not an option its only what’s on the list. I am sure however if I could have spoken Chinese they would have cooked it for me and I paid the extra. Anyway it was lovely and filling.
Before heading off to catch my next train I found a tea shop and ordered Chilli bubble tea. Nice initially then you get the whack of powdered chilli and as I had not got sugar in it made it more powerful. It was however delicious and one to try again.
Chiayi
Chiayi is the closest town (with plenty of budget
accommodation) to Alishan National Park. a ridge within Yushan (Jade mountain)
sitting around 2,000 -2,700 metres above sea level. With spectacular views when not raining….. I had looked forward to walking and after the
amount of fried food and sugar eaten in this country.
Alishan region is famous for Oolong tea so treated myself to a pot costing over £10. There are several tea and souvenir shops near tourist information. The tea arrived with its own pot heater and small cup would have easily been enough for two this was followed with two sweets -mocha and a biscuits. After drinking the pot of tea I braved the rain. The tourist office had suggested for ease to catch the train one way and then walk back. There were two train stations in the park as well as a bus. The walk around the park was only a couple of hours (4-5km) and they looked horrified when I said I’d walk. They are so used to local tourists and I appreciate it was raining so it would have been easier. The park route was circular and would have looked impressive on a spring sunny day with cherry trees in bloom near Zhaoping Park.
Lunch stop was near Shouzhen temple (worth admiring)
Second half of the walk featured the Alishan sacred tree, Ciyan temple (on a good day has a good view I hear…) Over 2300 years old, Sianglin, Alishan's Sacred Tree, has been standing erect for a thousand years, welcoming people coming to Alishan with its open arms. Visitors come to pay their respects and lovers come to make wishes. It is the God of the mountain and the king of the forest, standing among Sacred Trees and presenting its grace and fragrance
Dinner was back in Chiayi where I located a stall selling precooked food and you were given a plate and paid for what you ate usually three veg and a meat. I was addicted to the cauliflower and aubergine. There is a night market in Chiayi but disappointingly it is not open when it rains.
Next morning I went for a walk around the town using the hostels
own town food map. Recommendations were the famous Chiayi turkey
rice and braised pork on rice. I opted for the latter washed down with
passion fruit and green tea. Nice, but sweet as they hadn’t thought my “no sugar”
was a creditable option. The place was full of shops and temples other than
that nothing major to see and the food shops the highlight.
Next morning it was pouring down catching the tail end of the monsoon in the Philippines. Breakfast was takeaway of noodles and a soup with pork intestines in washed down with a convenience store coffee. I managed to eat the delicious soup and intestines but was full so never ate more than a couple of mouthfuls of the noodles. Good job really the bus journey once out of the city and closer to the national park was winding round and round the mountain. Definitely would have been a few people feeling sick on that journey.
I had planned to stay at the local Catholic youth hostel however due to Christmas holidays this had been closed so I ended back at Chiayi. Alishan region is famous for Oolong tea so treated myself to a pot costing over £10. There are several tea and souvenir shops near tourist information. The tea arrived with its own pot heater and small cup would have easily been enough for two this was followed with two sweets -mocha and a biscuits. After drinking the pot of tea I braved the rain. The tourist office had suggested for ease to catch the train one way and then walk back. There were two train stations in the park as well as a bus. The walk around the park was only a couple of hours (4-5km) and they looked horrified when I said I’d walk. They are so used to local tourists and I appreciate it was raining so it would have been easier. The park route was circular and would have looked impressive on a spring sunny day with cherry trees in bloom near Zhaoping Park.
The walk took in the gardens, then “Giant trees” followed by ponds known as two sisters – “Elder and Younger “sister defined by the size of the pond.
Four sisters - "After one big cypress was felled, four seeds of the same species happened to be air-delivered on top of the stump. The seeds grew into four intimate trees side by side which remind people of four endearing sisters" plaque next to tree.
Three brothers " These are three straight-up Taiwan red cypress trees growing side by side on top of some remaining stumps. They all looked quite similar to each other and people nicknamed them the Three Brothers" Plaque next to the tree states
Lunch stop was near Shouzhen temple (worth admiring)
Food stalls tempted me in with local sampling delicacies. Lunch was tea eggs with cuttle fish black sausage. Both very tasty, washed down with a sample of hot basil seed drink with honey.
Three generation tree
“Elephant trunk tree” which is an old cypress tree. "look closely at this aged red cypress stump. Can you see that the shape of the stump is similar to an elephants head, eyes and trunk. If you think the stump is exactly the same as an elephant take a snapshot with the stump, you may find it ore like a mammoth because its covered in moss"
Dinner was back in Chiayi where I located a stall selling precooked food and you were given a plate and paid for what you ate usually three veg and a meat. I was addicted to the cauliflower and aubergine. There is a night market in Chiayi but disappointingly it is not open when it rains.
Later caught the train over to Taichung then walked about 10 minutes to a private bus company to catch the bus to Puli to visit the Sun and moon lake the following day. This area was famous for its Assam tea. Dinner was at a local restaurant selling dumplings in soup and dessert was mocha balls in sauce, different flavours and colours to choose from. I opted for ginger and sesame ones. Not a patch on those sampled in Taipei.
Next morning had been told I must try the local breakfast of
Cheese and bacon egg roll combined with soya milk tea. The guy who’s stall it
was worked on his own, he made a large batches and then when sold out he closed
for the day. You needed to get in early. The shop was going out of town past
the brewery and Starbucks, on the left side.
Bus station to Sun Moon Lake was behind the hostel so caught
the local bus which took half an hour. Plenty of buses available but earlier is
better giving a full day at the lake.
The lake is the largest in Taiwan and often a place for
local honeymooners and holiday makers to visit. The bus stops in the centre of
the town outside tourist information which kept my luggage for free in their
lock up. They suggested walking up the Maolan trail first to get a great view
of the lake and surrounding mountains as well as the tea plantations on route
finishing at the Weather station 1.2km up. It was an easy walk out of town;
turn right up hill next to the hotel. It’s a road to start with going past the
plantains (750-100m elevation, circa 85% humidity and a strong acidic soil
making it the best area in Taiwan to plant and research tea) then a signpost and
staircase takes you to the next part of the trail. It’s steep but a fairly easy walk even for
children.
Start of the trail
Views on route
Tea bushes
I had lunch at the weather station at the top giving a 360 degree view of the surrounding mountains. Note monkeys can be at the top to steal food although I never saw any.
My favourite for lunch big sushi sandwich
Back down by the lake I walked around the shops and food stalls before walking part of the Hanbi hiking trail which goes down to the lake side, I stopped for a drink of iced Assam tea and rice cake snacks. A couple of shops were carrying out pre New Year’s rituals as the year was changing from the chicken to monkey. Stall holders could be seen putting wads of fake paper money into a fire in front of the shop. This I was told signifies out with the old and in with the New Year.
As this was the 30th December I needed to get back to Taipei as with most other tourists. I had booked a bus from Puli to Taipei whereas I had found out that a bus goes direct from the lake to Taipei. In this instance it worked for me as we had to stand one long line and catch the next bus leaving. Having stood in line for 30 minutes and it not having gone down I was beginning to think I would miss my bus. Then I had a reprieve, the attendants started calling people going to Puli to board the bus going to Taipei. I jumped the line of 50ish people. Even though the bus was going further it was letting people board so they could make space for people wanting to get on at Puli.
Whilst waiting for my bus for Taipei I took a walk to find food. I ended up with a deluxe seafood congee (porridge) which had crab, oyster, tuna and squid in. It cost TWD 80
Fried cuttlefish
Accommodation in Taipei had been long booked up and the
cheapest place in the centre was back to my original hostel Hey bear capsule. The cost was US$87 for New Year’s Eve and the
night before had gone up significantly as well.
Taipei
Tamsui is the
last stop on the red metro line about 40 minutes away. Tamsui is on the coast
and is located where the Taiwan Strait and the Tamsui River met. Tamsui’s old
street on the waterside is full of local tourist shops, restaurants and
independent fast food outlets with many of the sellers getting you to try
samples of fried chicken. After walking along the waterside I headed into the
town and found a busy local market. Here I bought lunch – black chicken. Which
having researched them are a Silkie chicken which has black pigments always
through to the bone. The meat tastes stronger and more gamey. I tried it but it
is not something I would eat again. I also tried deep fried soft shell crab.
Heading back into Taipei I next went over to Taipei 101 which has 101 floors and is 508 metres high. This is where the NYE fireworks would be lit from. As with most things in Chinese culture it was designed to resemble bamboo growing which symbolises fast and flexible growth - perfect for a financial institution, it’s divided into eight sections a number associated with prosperity. It was the world’s tallest building from 2008 – 2010 and has the world’s second fastest lift. 89 floor’s in 37 seconds. (I did not get to try it out although there is an observatory on the 91st floor but this needed to be booked).
After
walking around the shops in the base of the building I went outside to find
dinner which included 10 pieces of Stinky Tofu, hmm could eat four pieces and
that was enough.
Chicken feet
Dessert, being sold by cute images
Portuguese tarts
At 5pm I met a Thai girl from the hostel and we walked up Elephant Mountain to get a space to watch the NY fireworks.
We waited on the side of a step for midnight. The fireworks were great and last about 10 minutes before turning into a light display.
Taiwan – Final
Thoughts
Taiwan was an interesting country and I am pleased I have
been, would I go again probably not. Food was phenomenal and I liked that
country revolves around it on every street. Definitely my favourite was the
drunken chicken; the duck soup was pretty impressive. The landscape great just
wish there were more space to go walking.