Busan – 5th
– 9th September
My travels next takes me to Busan (pronounced Pu-san), located
on the South coast line and is great for walking in the mountains and around
the rugged coast line. Seafood is the food of choice here and I stayed at Indy
House in the popular resort of Haeundae beach near the night food market.
5th
September - Journey to Busan and temple by the sea
Having arrived in Busan by Bullet train I caught the metro
line over to Haeundae beach. It was easy to find and I knew straight away that
this was going to be even better than Seoul as it had a laid back beach feel although
a large town in its own right. Walking to my hostel I past two pet shops
selling small dogs and next to them was a large shop selling everything for
pets including dog clothes of various colours and sizes. Guess I could be
forgiven for thinking it was a shop for humans.
No sooner had I arrived and unpacked I headed off out via
bus to Yongsungsa temple which is situated in the side of a hill next to the
sea. This place is so tranquil listening to chanting whilst the waves lapping
behind can be heard. It is like stepping back in time. There are a number of
tourists over from China and Taiwan who had visited the temple as well as South
Koreans on holiday which added to the vibe. The temples themselves are so ornate
see the picture below. At this temple there was also a wishing well and as
throughout South Korea places highlighted to take photos. This was of a
traditional post box with the caption take a memory from a time that people
used to write and receive letters instead of email.
After returning to the beach I took a walk along the coastal
path to the lookout point. As I walked along the promenade I noticed a number
of signs that directed you to Tsunami points and giving instructions on where
to go should one occur. Fortunately none happened during my stay. South Koreans
do love a walk and exercise and as I was carrying out my walk there were about
50 who passed me in singles or two’s walking round the purpose made track. The
coastal walk had the obligatory signs educating tourists on points of interests
on route and also about the area. On the walk back there was a large mermaid
statue made out of plastic educating on the need to reduce the use of plastic.
Dinner was at the local food market where I opted for pig’s
foot.
This arrived with a number of side dishes known as Banchan. These generally include kimchi, radish pickled in vinegar, cabbage or other veg and a dipping sauce, I also ordered a bowl of steamed rice. When the pig’s foot arrived I was disappointed to see that there wasn’t any meat. Instead it was a pile of bones and skin which I dutifully gnawed my way through. At first picking them up with chopsticks but after managing to fling one across the floor I went back to my roots and picked the rest up with my fingers much to the enjoyment of the owner and her family. Later she came out the kitchen with a huge plate of bones, plonked herself down at the table next to me and did the same whilst watching Korean soaps on television. Her family were laughing at this, maybe a new trend has been started.
Usually everything is eaten with either chopsticks or a
spoon which is found in a box on the table when you arrive. Unlike China,
Koreans chopsticks are thinner and are made out of metal. This is historical as
according to the Lonely Planet guide book “Previously kings insisted on silver
chopsticks and bowls because silver would tarnish in the presence of poison.
The custom passed down to the common people, although they could only afford
metal”.
6th September - Day hiking
Today I had a lie in since I was rudely woken up at 2am by
two locals coming back to the dorm after a night out. I got up at 9:30am and decided
to try a sit down Korean breakfast so headed off to the local restaurant for
Kimchi fried rice (ok how many ways can one eat Kimchi, I don’t know but I am
sure going to try the different ones I came across). As the owner did not serve
coffee I went to the local convenience store and bought my own, not sure this
is common practise but locals who work with tourists don’t get fazed by much.
The Lonely planet has a list of do’s and don’t of eating which includes:
- · Don’t pour drinks for yourself unless you are on your own (instead pour drinks for others if you notice their glass is empty, they will then pour yours). Do not touch food with your fingers
- · Don’t eat rice with chopsticks – always use a spoon
- · Don’t pick up bowls or plates from the table to eat from them.
- · Don’t leave you chopsticks or spoon sticking up from your rice bowl. This is taboo, only done with food that is offered to deceased ancestors
- · Don’t blow your nose at the table
- · Don’t tip
Food was tasty but very heavy so ate half and also left the
kimchi which I noticed as I was paying and getting ready to leave went straight
back in the big pot for the next guest to eat. I could not leave without
signing tinatravels – England on the wall. One of the famous Kpop groups had a
couple of members from this town and they had photographs and autographs in
frames on the wall. Tourists thought this would be a great idea to scrawl their
name and country around them. Noticing there wasn’t an England one (I can’t
believe they have not received travellers from England so will go with the
British reserved nature of not defacing property well until now….).
Anyway, today I decided to go hiking which is a huge pastime
in Korea especially among the retired population. Every tube journey taken included
locals kitted out in Korean branded lightweight hiking clothes, sporting
brightly coloured walking trainers and in their backpacks walking poles. They
meet their friends at tube stations and then go off for the day.
On this particular day I took on the challenge of catching a
tube for an hour to North Busan starting on line two briefly flirting with line
three before ending on line one then getting off with a number of fellow
walkers chatting away and boarding a bus to our start point of Beomeo-sa
temple. As the only foreigner in the group I was pulled away at the entrance
into a room where an English speaking guide painstakingly talked me through the
temple complex before moving on to the route I was to take. First up the
mountain Geumjeongsan which would take an hour and it was steep. Then onto the
Northgate then finishing off at East gate walking near the wall throughout.
Earlier the receptionist at the Hostel had told me to continue onto Southgate
and then catch the cable car down however this guy did not think this was a
good idea. He was a man and therefore strong whilst I was only a woman. Hmm,
will prove you wrong on this one mate. He was adamant that between East gate
and South gate there was nothing much to see so not to bother. Later I
discovered that all of this sounded grand with all these gates and you expect
to see a towering fortress in between but instead the gates (fantastic and
highly decorative) are the main attractions and the fortress is nowhere to be
seen.
The gates are connected via a stone wall which helps you stay on the
right path since several little paths have since been created.
Also on route there are random other bits to see such as rocks in the
shape of…. And gatehouses. The walk takes you through open land so if the
weather had been less smoggy various views of Busan would have been seen.
Instead I could just make out the high rise flats and shops in the distance.
Since it was by this time 11:30am and the heat was already a
sweltering 26 degrees (somewhat cooler than Seoul) I briefly looked over the
temple and found the toilet. Some old lady struck up a conversation telling me
to go eat (via hand actions) at the local temple building. She did not seem to
want to take no for an answer, maybe this was a special meal that I was missing
out on. Either way after she left I managed to go the oppose way since I had
already got my lunch of gimbap (similar to sushi but without any washabi or soy
sauce added) and a hot mung bean pancake which I had bought on route (one not
to be missed claims the lonely planet).
I started walking up a road which then forked one way had a
wire fence with an open door whilst the other was where the road continued. I
took the road only to end up back at the temple serving food and tried to be
ushered in by another man trying to do the traveller a favour. He eventually
accepted and looked at my map before leading me back down the road to the open
gate. I love this country they share my love of health and safety and risk
assessments. Of course in South Korea they lock the gate to the mountain at
night! Back on the correct path I came across another fork, deciding to take
the right hand one this time I came across a group of four ladies resting and
eating their lunch. I think they were surprised to see the westerner walking
without poles and not wearing the same attire instead opting for shorts and a
floating top.
In terms of wildlife, on route I only came across two snakes
as well as a few birds, oh and a domestic cat family living at the top of the
mountain (of course…).
The walk to the top took an hour and half by which time I
had definitely earnt my lunch. I sat with a group of male walkers and a couple
of other walkers. Along came a local worker who was collecting the rubbish left
and that is how they manage to keep their walking areas so tidy.
By this time I had almost run out of water, I had not
realised how hot and how steep the mountain was going to be along with the mung
bean pancake which was really dry. I descended much slower than the rest of the
walkers and found North gate. To my relief there was a mountain spring. I
eagerly drank down the remaining contents as well as a further one litre before
refilling my water bottle giving thanks for the divine intervention. The rest
of the day was uneventful. I occasionally passed locals with their phones
blearing out the latest kpop or classical music. On reaching East gate I
continued on to South gate. Smiling and thinking, man maybe strong but woman is
determined… The last part of the journey as he correctly identified was in
trees and with very little views. There were some wooden steps as with other
parts of the walk along with some ropes strategically placed to assist with
steep parts of the route. Eventually I made it to South gate. I was hoping for
a welcoming party instead a local family were having a picnic and other had
previously been and gone and left their rubbish. I eventually found the path
down to the cable car and purchased a cider (something similar to sprite) to
celebrate. The cable car would be leaving in 20 minutes so I had plenty of time
to chill out. I was joined in the cable car by two fellow walkers. As I had
perspired greatly I was pleased for the space in the confined space or rather
my fellow passengers would have been.
I walked down into the town, stopping to ask a grandma
minding what I assume was her grandchild for directions to the tube station.
She said something in Korean and then did the x factor sign. This means no or
not allowed over here so is seen quite often. I walked on down the road further
stopping to ask one other local for directions this time she pointed at her
eyes as to suggest should could not see or needed glasses which she was not
wearing. In this country most of the younger generation speak some English or
rather American but fewer older people.
When I eventually found a man who knew where the tube
station was he said he was going there so I should follow him. We walked in
silence until he asked where I was going so that he could put me on the right
side of the tube. I stood in front of a woman only carriage so he pointed to
the sign and bid me fair well. I think he was probably relieved he did not have
to stand to close to the sweaty tourist.
That evening back in Haeundae I treated myself to a Korean
bbq. Since I was dining solo I had to pay for two people. I selected pork and
mixed meat. The restaurant owner fired up the bbq and diligently placed the
meat on top. Every now and again he came back to turn the meat over. At one
point he walked off and came back with a little silver tray which he then
removed the raw garlic I had snook onto the bbq and put it on the tray saying
it will fall through.
The side dishes that day were the most I had seen, seaweed,
radish in pink vinegar, raw onion, chillies (I successfully managed to cook
these on the bbq without getting another tray). Once the meat was cooked he
brought over a dish of cooked egg which tasted a bit like egg custard. There
was also lettuce and some Korean leaves which watching other fellow diners I
realised were making into the Korean version of duck pancakes. I do like the
dipping sauce of which I had to ask for seconds of along with the radish. Sides
are something you can ask to be topped up as many times as you wish. On
finishing the bbq I walked back via the night market and found a supermarket. I
purchased peach wine and also a happy fish ice cream for dessert to prolong the
celebration further. Getting back to my room I was rewarded with an empty dormitory
so I was able to get a well deserved night sleep.
7th
September – Gamcheon culture village and fish market
Today I visited Gamcheon Culture Village. The village was built in 1958 as individual little
wooden shanty houses on the side of a hill.
The gardens were terraced so as to
utilise the available space to grow vegetables. In 1970’s the village was taken
over by an art development project and the village was regenerated into multi
coloured house fronts and modern art and wall art throughout. Tourists are
given a map to follow the route with explanations for each design. I’m not one
for modern art but this is done in such a fun way it is captivating. My
favourites included one at the beginning called “Sweet whispers of Dandelions” This carries a warm message that the hopes
and dreams of the residents and visitors shall come true in the village or far
away just like the dandelion spores float away in the wind to bloom new flowers
somewhere else.
Another “People and Birds”. Description - Everyone must have
imagined about flying in the sky. This piece conveys that wish to sometimes fly
the sky like birds leaving everything behind.
The route winds around alley ways and the different level of
terrace houses. When you turn a corner you are greeted with a different design.
One alley I walked past was called “book
café” which had books painted over the walls depicting a library or books
shelves and other was called 147 steps or house of stars stairway. As there
were 147 steps and as you look down it can make you feel dizzy and see stars.
From the roof top terrace of the community centre gave the
best views of the town.
Final image to share.
Next stop was one of the many markets where I tried a number
of foods - a large apple, large grapes (I have previously tasted a large peach)
my thoughts are they look great but possess very little flavour compared to the
smaller fruits. I did see an avocado for the first time on the trip but it was
too hard to eat. I also bought a fresh rice cake but this was really hard and
could easily break a tooth, think it must be broken up and go into a soup. I
also visited a “ Tours Jours bakery” which I see frequently around and bought a
“fresh cream cake” nothing like our fresh cream luckily as it was in ambient
temperature much more like confectioners cream. Tasted ok bit sweet.
I caught the bus to Taejongdae Park. South Korea has a
number of these parks which have great view in this case of the rugged
coastline and also housed a couple of small Buddhist temples. One had been
taken over by the Korean Army since people had tried to commit suicide off the
rocks in this space. It was originally a small piece of land which had a roof
made of tarpaulin and now features a purpose built temple. The other was an
empty temple which had chanting blearing out over a loud speaker enticing
people in. When you get there the temple is empty. It would look great in the
height of summer as it is surrounded by Hydrangeas which were now in the last
stages of flowering.
The main feature to walk to was a lighthouse which the
Korean fisheries department has taken advantage of the steep climb back up to
put up a number of boards explaining about the different fish in the sea. Many of the local caught the train which
navigates its way round the park stopping at the main views for the tourists to
get off then back on without having to use up much energy other than going down
to the lighthouse and back. The other option which was thrust at me whilst
walking up the high street was a boat journey around the coast. The guy was
appalled that I would prefer to walk the 1.5 hours instead of taking a 2 hour
boat ride around.
Conveniently the park was located very close to the bus
station, I was able to stop off at the convenience store for water before
making my way back through coffee shops and fairground stalls hoop the teddy
bear. One had guns on the side waiting for a tourist to hit a target and win a
huge toy. Did not see that the guns were tied down and I was not waiting around
long enough to find out.
Finally stop of the day was to Jagalchi fish market. This
was easy to find as it had a huge arc in front of the street with a crab on.
Koreans do make it easy for tourists to travel around. If the sign is not in
English then there is probably modern art nearby. Alternatively the tube
station has an exit sign letting you know which one to take. Walking down the
road to get to the market there were a number of fish restaurants. One I
noticed in particular was selling whale meat; this was mega expensive 150,000
for the choice cuts.
The market was much the same as the Seoul version however
as it was 7pm when I arrived there were fewer stalls open although the
selection was wider than Seoul, I saw a black sea snail and huge mussels about
the side of my foot (size 4.5). I took a quick look around before heading
upstairs to see what the restaurants were offering I could try. I tried to
explain to one restaurant owner that I wanted to try different seafood a
customer intervened and he escorted me back downstairs (much to the delight of
his friends) he spoke to one of the stall owners and assured me this was the
best and cheapest way to buy what I wanted. I selected a scallop, mussel, abalone
and two small conch shell things (don’t know how else to describe them) these
cost 15,000 won with another couple of seafood. I was then ushered to the fish
shop where I was told sashimi is the best fish??? I selected a small fish much
to her annoyance and then she tried me on others. X factor sign quick, no I
want eel. Definitely the right thing to say since when paying I found out my
fish was 1,000 won and the small eel 13,000. I watched as a man gutted the eel,
the woman during this time got on the phone and next thing I know I am being
ushered back upstairs (by a different stall owner) well she first looked
through all the fish dis-guarded bones which were being thrown away before
nodding to me to follow her upstairs. One of the workers took over and told me
it would be 13,000 to get cooked. Ouch that was almost the same as the fish.
She explained the eel and fish would be cooked on the bbq whilst the seafood would
be steamed.
I took my shoes off (Koreans don’t wear outdoor shoes
inside) and was shown to a Korean style table with a thin cushion on the floor.
Lots of side dishes were presented in front of me whilst the fish was cooked.
There was a big party of Korean men eating seafood stew drinking Soju and
celebrating as well as couple sitting at their own table. The food arrived as
and when it was cooked. It was a great experience and I know that if I had
tried to buy it either in England or at one of the stalls it would have been
much more.
On leaving the market I was called over by a local man who
wanted his photo taken with me. He gave his companion his phone and showed me
to a statue. Bit of role reversal going on, I was feeling like the local now. I
gave the guy my camera as well although this seemed too much to cope with. He
told me at the end that the older man was single and asked if I was married.
Thank goodness for the wedding ring I had bought a couple of weekends before.
When I showed it him he said that is on the wrong hand. I was able to assure
him that in England the wedding ring is on the left hand and not the Asian
right hand. Phew situation diverted.
That night I got back to find I had a new roommate, Jenny
from Austria. Having woken her up on
arrival she got up and we chatted over my pineapple soju whilst she shared her
Japanese Banana sweets that she had bought whilst taking a detour via Japan to
buy. It was a late night and no blog was going to get written that night….
September 8th
– A day with new friends and much laughter
After breakfasting at hostel, Omelette and a strong black
coffee I went onto the roof top terrace to collect my laundry which the hostel
had done the previous day. Typical, it was the first time it had rained since I
had been here and some of my washing was still wet. I then went back to the
room and Jenny stirred conveniently. She decided to join me for the day so
after going back to breakfast with her we ventured out first stop was Igidae
another coastal walk area taking about 2.5 hours to reach the tip and the
skywalk. After speaking to a conveniently located information guide who was
loitering at the start waiting for tourists we found out the walk was 2.5 hours
long. Great! It was 11:30 and we had only our water and no food. The other
option was the bus, which seemed a bit of a cheat’s way to get there. We started
the walk and within 20 minutes we came across a restaurant so stocked up. Iced
mango drink with a box of cheese and lemon crackers. Now we were set for the
walk. The tourist map showed the usual highlighted points of interest. Holes in
the stones which loosely resembled dinosaurs’ feet, great view points and rock
formations which arguably looked like recognisable shapes. The walk took us
mostly on the wooden constructed steps and bridged which had been built to protect
the environment and also make it safer for those walking on it. We took a brief
detour away from the sea edge through trees and then up steep steps up to a
road and conveniently a bus stop for the bus we had declined at the start of
the walk. We quickly found our route back onto the walk and continued ahead stopping
at various points and over taking or being overtaken by a separate guy and a
girl ( we later found out was called Anne and from Switzerland).
At one point we thought we only had 0.8 km to go to the end,
then around the next corner the sign said 1km so after that we gave up knowing.
Eventually we turned the last corner to see several high rise flats at the
resort which had the skywalk on along with a coffee shop (celebration time) and
toilets. After buying an expensive iced Americano and taking advantage of the
air conditioning facilities. Anne came in and we invited her to join us. After introducing
ourselves and chatting for a while about the walk Anne offered to watch our
bags whilst we went on the skywalk. The skywalk was a glass structure which
jutted out from the rocks and over the sea. The locals were very scared to go
on but with cajoling from their friends gingerly ventured on. To prevent
slipping and sliding on the glass we were each made to wear over foot
protection which was a large sock with slide resistant bumps on the bottom.
The whole experience took 10 minutes and we were back in the
air conditioning coffee house. Discussing over plans. We invited Anne to join
us for a Spa. Jenny had previously studied in Korea so knew the language and
had visited different types of Spa’s in Korea and Japan which was handy. We
caught a bus to Shinsegae centum city which is the largest department store as
mentioned in the Guinness book of records in 2009 and still holds the record
today.
It was getting late and none of us had eaten much so we first found the
food court. Fishcakes in spicy sauce and fried sweet potato for me.
Imagine my surprise
when I then looked up and saw a sign for Waitrose. It had a small selection of reusable
bags, table stationery and food. We had a brief spell of shopping before
heading over to the Home plus supermarket for me to get a few bits in for my
forthcoming Trans Siberian train journey. Bit more of a suprise this one was
filled with Tesco goods. At least it made it easier to locate what I needed.
Finally at 7:30 we decided to head for Spa land.
Next experience….. 15,000 for 4 hours. Thank goodness for
the others as 4 hours would be too long for me in a Spa. We were given a pin
number which we first used to open our shoe locker. Then the same code for our
clothes locker. We were presented with clothes looking like pj’s and a small
towel for later when we wanted to get snacks or go into the shared areas where
males are present. The spa experience is naked which was a first for Anne and
I, omg we were going to have fun, I could tell already. First off we collected
a stool and bowl and sat at a mirror with shampoo and body wash. We had to
clean ourselves before entering the pools. We first visited the outside pools
before venturing indoors. Temperatures generally ranged from 30-45 degrees
although the coldest was 19. Although it was supposed to be a quiet experience
so that we did not upset other guests we managed to grab a few laughs. Later we
visited the snacks area first to the foot pools and then the different
temperature sauna zones. Europe was wave
dream room (space where people can experience mental meditation and relaxation,
the ripples of water are reflected on the ceiling to make you feel as if you
were under the deep sea) It also had the coolest temperature. Other rooms were
Pyramid room 52 degrees angle of the pyramid is known to be the most suitable
angle to gather the energy of the universe. The temperature wasn’t much
cooler. Hammam room described as mid
temperature steam bath. By letting the skin discharge waste, the bath makes the
skin beautiful and improves the self-immune system. We left after 10:30
completely refreshed and ready for sleep. Next day was back on the move again.
September 9th
– Bus Journey to final Korean destination
Early morning to catch the bus to my last destination. The
bus journey took 5 hours v the 6 I had been lead to believe which is always a
great relief to get to a location quicker. Only not this time as I had just
emptied my 3rd bag and was diligently packing it so all the train
food fitted when I was told this was my stop. Hmm, quickly throwing everything
back in I left the bus. I walked to the ticket counter who draw me a map to
show my next bus location. Thankful outside was a tourist information booth who
helped me get my next two days transport and locations sorted.
September 10th - Chilling out day
Today I took the tourist train down the sunshine coast to Samcheok.
This was followed by a bus journey to a park filled with Phallic objects. Later on I took the train home and chilled out for the rest of the afternoon.
Expensive hostel for those who want a cruise but to stay on land
Beach view
View near my guest house
Dinner was Tofu spicy hot pot.
Tomorrow I take the ferry over to Russia.